Faith, Hope, and Charity: 3 Key Ingredients for Spiritual Nourishment

— Martin C. Winer (June 2010)

Appeared in Good News Toronto ( www.goodnewstoronto.ca )

A Zen Buddhist parable describes heaven and hell as two equally lavish halls with sumptuous food available for all to eat, but the only cutlery supplied are three-foot chopsticks and the use of hands is forbidden. In the banquet hall representing hell, all are hungry and miserable because they can’t eat with the three-foot chopsticks. In heaven all are well nourished and content because they learned to feed each other.

Executive Chef Steffan Howard has carved out a little piece of heaven on the shores of Lake Ontario with his weekly Wednesday lunches, “Faith, Hope, and Charity,” at the Palais Royale. The meal is donation- based with the proceeds only covering costs and the rest, nearly 60%, going to local charities. The dishes are produced largely from local organic produce with Chef Steffan doing his utmost to “Shop Local first.” Boiled away are the fancy place settings, French service, and pricey menus; what remains is a rich reduction of community, friendship, and wholesome food.

Chef Steffan takes pride in that the lunches “feature communal seating, everyone takes away their own plate — and I’m heartened to watch old and new friendships grow and develop here.”

Just four short years ago, before its restoration, the Palais Royale was a largely derelict building, with the melodies of generations past mournfully echoing through its lavish structure with no one to hear. Once a Toronto hotspot where legends of Swing such as Ella Fitzgeraldand, Dizzie Gillespie graced the stage, the walls of the Palais Royale are bedecked with endless photos of yesteryear stars who appeared there.

Executive Chef Steffan Howard has carved out a little piece of heaven on the shores of Lake Ontario with his weekly Wednesday lunches.

It would take a seasoned chef like Chef Steffan to know that older mushrooms are the ones to pick because they have richer flavour — so too it would seem for locations: “This venue has an absolutely amazing history, so many romances, such great music… I’ve had the luxury of meeting the great-great-grandson of musicians that played here in the 30s… I’ve witnessed a couple in their 90s throw the ashes of a loved one off the patio because they had such a special attachment with this place back in the World War II years.”

The lunch started as a promotion of the organic market at the Evergreen (Don Valley) Brick Works Farmers’ Market. Soon after, word quickly spread; Chef Steffan asked for donations and began supporting charities. At the outset, the lunch provided quality nourishment for residents in need from the Parkdale community — many of whom continue to attend to this day. However, as the attendance began to climb, so too did number of organizations the lunch supported.

One such charity is Join the Dance Canada, promoting youth dancing. “Often the group will come in and entertain us with their dancing.” Another charity is Carmelina’s Home, a Woman’s support group, where participants often take the mic and share their stories which “bring a tear to peoples’ eyes and leave us all feeling so grateful for what we have.” The third charity officially supported by the lunch is the Hellenic Heritage Foundation, which helps people in need accomplish daily tasks so many of us take for granted. In addition to the three official charities, other charities are welcome to join the lunch where, after covering the minimum donation, they can direct the monies collected from their guests towards their cause.

Chef Steffan also has experience as an organic farmer, giving him knowledge of the food industry spanning from soil to seedlings, all the way to plating presentation. However, for Chef Steffan, filling the stomach doesn’t complete his mandate as chef. A phrase common to several faiths is that “[humankind] does not live on bread alone.” Chef Steffan has helped foster a unique, dynamic communal environment that nourishes both body and soul.